Right now, as I type, I am literally sitting in my comfort zone. My favorite place in all the world, is right here in my beach house on Whidbey Island, WA. Whether it’s raining or snowing, sunny and bright, I feel my best right here looking out these windows or sitting out on our deck. We have a gorgeous view of Puget Sound, a hint of the Olympic Mountains, a peek of Rainier, and a perfect view of the Seattle skyline. Also, we look directly over to Hansville and its beckoning light house on the Kitsap Peninsula, with shipping lanes passing between us carrying cruise ships, cargo ships, even the Victoria Clipper on its way from Seattle to Canada each day. But most importantly, I see Useless Bay, encircled around me and stretched out from bank to bank, each one with a bluff cascading straight down to the sea, like an abrupt exclamation point at the end of a sentence. Shallow and sandy, familiar and welcoming, the Bay is waiting for summer and for crab season. This is where my children explore tide pools and search out sand dollars, shells, interesting pieces of driftwood and beautiful rocks. This is where we can come to escape stress, schedules and routines, and maybe even see a gray whale. This is where neighbors have welcomed us as though we’ve been old friends, grown up here and aren’t the new faces amongst generations of “locals”. We have found a home here and a comfort that is more than we had ever hoped for.
We purchased this house as a getaway about a year ago. This little stretch of the island is perfect; the tides go out several hundred yards each day, leaving miles of sandy wonderland for the kids (hence the name “Useless” given by early explorers who could not get in and out of the bay at low tide). The water is warm when it comes in because the sun has a chance to heat it nicely, as the depths are minimal. Because of the protection offered by the bookend cliffs, Double Bluff and the bluff above Maxwelton beach, the air temperature stays warmer during the day and there is little wind. And lastly, again, there is the view.
- Before
Unfortunately, although the house itself has good ”bones”, it is quite small. When we bought it, the inside was very outdated: yellow appliances, blue/green soiled carpet, corroded toilets and layers of filth everywhere. The outside was painted a sort of purpley blue, the garage was creepy crawly and the little deck was literally a safety hazard with rotting boards and rusty nails popping up. So when the sale closed, we began a transformation.
After
Knowing we planned to do a major remodel a few years down the road, we set in with a minor updating plan: white paint, neutral carpet, new linoleum, toilets, all new silver door hinges and handles, new silver light fixtures, some new/used stainless steel appliances, and lots of charm and style. In a matter of a few months, the house became a cozy, beautiful little sanctuary for our family. We tore off the rotting deck and replaced it with almost 1,000 square foot composite deck, anchored some buoys in the bay, bought a few crab pots, a little Smokercraft fishing boat, a Weber barbeque and enough teak furniture to seat 20. And then we started into our first summer here.
Whidbey Island comes to life in the summer. Ferry lines double (and triple) on the weekends, reservations are recommended for dinner and familiar faces start popping up around the beach. I’d even go so far as to say the 40-mile long island experiences a little bit of traffic congestion and gridlock. Although we’ve only experienced one full season up here, it is clear that there is a massive migration of Seattle-ites to Whidbey Island beginning in June and lasting thru late September, with the population reaching an all out frenzy on Fourth of July weekend.
If you’ve never been to south Whidbey Island, you are missing out on some of the most spectacular scenery, outdoor activities, food, wine and all-around charm in the state. Being a life-long resident of Washington State, of course I had heard of Whidbey Island before. I had heard several people fawn and gush over this little place with a passion. But like so many other recommendations, it got lost in the day-to-day clutter of one’s mind and forgotten in the annual planning of a busy mom. Their passion never really motivated me to go see the island for myself. Fortunately, now I can say, I know the secret: Whidbey is truly one of the best places on earth! My comfort zone… my sanctuary… and now my passion. Even Travel+Leisure magazine counted it amongst the top 50 most romantic places in the world in February 2009. http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/50-best-romantic-getaways-2009 Can you really argue with that??
So with summer fast approaching, I suggest you put this little spot on your list of must-sees and immediately start looking into island beach rentals, hotels or B&Bs.
There are two ways to get onto the island. The first is by ferry from Mukilteo (30 min. drive from Seattle, then 20 min. ferry ride), which will drop you at the south end of the island, the other is by driving up to Burlington and crossing Deception Pass by car onto the north end of the island. This is quite a drive, but Deception Pass is gorgeous and well worth a peek. Plan several hours if driving by this route. The Mukilteo ferry runs every half hour, but the lines can be brutal. Fortunately, Ivar’s has a walk up menu of fish, chips and even ice cream, located across the street from the ferry parking lot to curb your restlessness and remind you this is supposed to be fun!
Once on the island, there are many neat things to see and do, and the following will serve as an abbreviated guide for your visit:
Langley
http://www.visitlangley.com/
This is the first little town you will come to once you have departed the ferry. It is the heart of south Whidbey! With its quaint feel and small town store fronts, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time where life was slower, easier and offline. The town sits on the top of a bluff, looking out over the Saratoga Passage to Camano Island. Views can be quite dreamy if the weather is nice. There are all the shops here that one would expect to find in a quiet island community: a bookstore, music shop, antique shops, art galleries, clothing boutiques, a grocer and wine merchant, pizzeria, glass blowing studio, coffee shops, bakeries and even a little one room theatre, playing first run movies. However, lest you think this area is all small town, rural simplicity, one meal or stay at the award-winning The Inn at Langley will debunk that notion. Chef Matt Costello (a James Beard Award winner) prepares gourmet, local, 6-course menus in this fine dining establishment every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and the “Inn” is utterly spa-like with fireplaces in each room, fine linens, jetted tubs, and balconies overlooking the water. Aside from a stay in a beach rental, this is the way to go! Other delicious fares, though not as “fine” and a bit more kid-friendly, can be found at Primo Bistro and Café Langley. The Braeburn is a must for breakfast, even winning the Best Breakfast in Washington State award by The Food Network Magazine, July 2010. The Star Store offers current trends in houseware items, clothing, gifts and specialty foods. And for the wine lovers in the group, Whidbey Island Winery is close by and offers up some fantastic reds that are sure to take you by surprise. Greg Osenbach, along with Leah Waaramaki, are the winemakers here, and will likely be pouring you samples in the tasting room. I highly recommend a visit and tell them Stephanie and Andy sent you! Lastly, Langley is home to the Island County Fair each year in August — a charming little attraction for young and old, alike. Details on the winery and other great spots are as follows:
Whidbey Island Winery
5237 Langley Road
Langley, WA 98260
360-221-2040
www.whidbeyislandwinery.com
**We recommend the 2006 Yakima Valley Syrah (a Seattle Wine Awards 2010 Gold Winner), 2005 Composition and 2008 Dolcetto!
The Inn at Langley
400 First Street
Langley, WA 98260
360-221-3033
www.innatlangley.com
The Clyde Theatre
Playing first-run movies nightly at 7:30pm, at $6 per adult and $4 per child, you know you’re not in Seattle anymore! For a list of upcoming shows: www.theclyde.net.
The Braeburn
197 2nd Street
Langley, WA 98260
360-221-3211
www.braeburnlangley.com
The Star Store
201 1st Street
Langley, WA 98260
360-221-5223
www.starstorewhidbey.com
Village Pizzeria
106 1st Street
Langley, WA 98260
360-221-3363
**We recommend the Pesto pizza — oh yum! This place is small and fills up, but you can always get it to-go. Allow 30 minutes!
Freeland
http://www.freeland-wa.org/
Moving north up the island, Freeland is the next town you will approach. It is probably best described as a hub for the locals, in that it features typical shops and services needed for everyday life: a supermarket, hardware store, breakfast spots, gas stations, insurance offices, etc. However, one spot well worth mentioning is Gordon’s on Blueberry Hill, a lovely little fine dining restaurant overlooking Holmes Harbor. I have been amazed with their ability to “squeeze in” our family of six without a reservation on a busy night. This is not what I would call kid-friendly, but they have gone above and beyond for us every time, always kindly catering to our toddler and never once making us feel unwelcome. The food is very good, with an emphasis on local ingredients, such as clams and mussels from Penn Cove. Try to get a table by the window and you will be enchanted with the view of the harbor, sailboats, birds and sunsets all evening long.
Gordon’s on Blueberry Hill
5438 Woodard Avenue
Freeland, WA 98249
360-331-7515
Greenbank
I list this location for one reason: Greenbank Farm. This is a must-see, as several local crafts and tastes can be enjoyed in this one spot. Located right off Hwy 525, the venue is home to three art galleries featuring multiple local artists, a wine tasting room, again featuring all local wines, a cafe with delicious Panini sandwiches, scones, espresso, salads, and a cute little duck pond for the kiddos. Additionally, in the summer time, you will find a Sunday farmer’s market and more local artisans exhibiting and selling their original works. We have been delighted to find handcrafted cutting boards by local craftsman Heritage Woodcraft, and pretty watercolor pictures of island attractions.
Greenbank Farm
765 Wonn Road
Greenbank, WA 98277
360-678-7700
www.greenbankfarm.net
Coupeville
http://www.cometocoupeville.com/
Oh, what a lovely little spot! This is perhaps my most favorite of all the little towns. Coupeville is home to Ebey’s Landing and Penn Cove, and the Coupeville wharf has some of my favorite stops. First up is a stroll out to the end of the pier to the tiny little red shack that houses a gray whale skeleton. I love coming out here to see this, as it feels very Museum-of-Natural-History-ish. The kids love looking down from the pier to the water, seeing all the barnacles, clams and mussels, and browsing for a neat find in the souvenir shop in the shack. Afterwards, we head to the Knead and Feed for lunch. As you can guess from the name, they offer fresh breads, pies, cinnamon rolls, and make wonderful sandwiches, soups and salads. Right next door is the cutest little beach shop called Aqua Gifts. I rarely leave here empty-handed, as the store offers wonderful, affordable beach house items, cards, candles, accessories and collectibles that you would expect from such a locale. Other town shops include antiques, crafts, yarns, artwork, kites, jewelry and a Dutch products store. Coupeville is home to what many consider the best restaurant on the island: the Oystercatcher. With its French inspired style, delicious local delicacies of the sea, and comprehensive, yet succinct wine list, this is sure to be your favorite “night out” on the Island. Lastly, Christopher’s offers a lovely, local meal and wine list, that we enjoy as well.
Knead and Feed
4 NW Front Street
Coupeville, WA 98239
360-678-5431
www.kneadandfeed.com
Oystercatcher
901 Grace Street
Coupeville, WA 98239
360-678-0683
www.oystercatcherwhidbey.com
Christopher’s
103 NW Coveland St.
Coupeville, WA 98239
360-678-5480
www.christophersonwhidbey.com
Aqua Gifts
2 Front Street
Coupeville, WA 98239
360-678-0664
Other
There is more to see on the way up to Deception Pass thru Oak Harbor, which is a much larger town and home to a U.S. naval air station. Given my lack of experience in this part of the island, the only other recommendations I’ll include here are a visit to the historic Fort Casey, where you can tour the old military fort, go up in the Admiralty Head Lighthouse, camp out in the state campgrounds, and take a ferry over to Port Townsend, and a visit to Fraser’s Gourmet Hideaway. I have not personally dined at Fraser’s, but I understand it has amazing food and a great ambience, which many locals seem to love, so I’ll recommend it here and hope to try it for myself soon. For me, the charm of Whidbey is all located down south, where there is more of a remote, rural feel. I hope you get a chance to visit soon and see this all for yourself!
Fraser’s Gourmet Hideaway
1191 SE Dock Street
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
360-279-1231
www.frasersgh.com
Fort Casey is located three miles south of Coupeville, off Hwy 525.
